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Repairing Panasonic PNLC1029

2014/06/21 By staze 120 Comments

Panasonic PNLC1029 BoardI purchased a set of Panasonic cordless phones from woot.com a while back, and all of them worked great. But, after a while, one of the chargers stopped working. Looking at the voltage on the charger, it was showing the normal voltage across it (about 5.5V), but the unit just wouldn’t charge. I wired up the unit with my meter between checking amperage draw, and it was only pulling about 2mA, where a working charger showed 200mA. Hmmm…

I opened the charger (single screw on the bottom) and it’s pretty darn simple, as you can see from the picture. The 1R resistors both checked out, as did the fuse, but interestingly, I was seeing a 1.8V drop across the protection diode. That’s… not right. I opened another unit and got the normal 0.6V drop across it.

So, figured the diode might be bad, I pulled it, and got the more normal 0.6V drop. So, bad solder joint it would have seemed. I put it back in, and soldered it back in, and it stayed with the 0.6V drop. I hooked it all back up, and meter showed a more normal 200mA draw. So, it works!

Obviously, given the look of the board, I’m guessing these are cranked out by the thousands, and just ended up with a cold solder. So if you have one of these, check that protection diode (as well as the fuse), since it’s unlikely the resistors would go south. =)

PNLC1029 1N4001UPDATE 7/3/2014As can be told from the comments, I’ve had the repair fail since doing it. Resoldering the diode would help for a bit, then it would fail again. So, knowing the diode was the issue, I grabbed a standard axial 1N4001 from the parts bin, trimmed the legs, bent them over, and soldered it in place. So far, it’s working… but I’m not going to consider it fixed until it lasts for a good month or so. I have to wonder, since I can’t find any stats on that diode, if it’s overheating (and therefore, under-spec, but that generally wouldn’t cause the symptoms seen). And yes, I know it looks like hell. I don’t care. =)

Filed Under: Electronics Tagged With: Panasonic Charger, repair

Fluke 8060a Repair/Refurbish

2014/06/18 By staze

fluke_8060aI recently purchased a “Parts/Repair” Fluke 8060a off eBay for $25, and have been working on and off to repair it for the last couple weeks. When it arrived, it was quite dirty (as to be expected for a 20+ year old multimeter), and was a bit spotty in performance. It would power on, but it took some time to come up, and the readings were all over the place.

So, having read a fair bit about repairing them on the wonderful site by Mr. Modem Head, I started first by disassembling the meter to clean up the case in some Mr. Clean all purpose cleaner. Interestingly, after getting the case off, I found that the COM jack had broken loose of the PCB and just spun freely. First time for everything (I’d get that soldered up later).

Cleaning the case was quite easy, and just took some time to dry as there’s a metal shield on the interior of the back panel that cannot be removed, and therefore requires some time for the water to dry between it and the case, and after a few days, I had a nice clean case. Soldering the jack back in place just entailed firing up the soldering iron, and placing the whole tip into the jack and letting it get it nice and hot, and running solder around the jack and the PCB (similar to soldering copper pipe with a torch). I also cleaned up the LCD crystal with some plastic polish (PlastiX), and a polishing end on my drill press (set to the lowest speed, about 600rpm). This took a good 20-30 minutes of polishing to get the scratches to blend with the rest of the crystal.

[Read more…]

Filed Under: Electronics Tagged With: Fluke 189, Fluke 8060a, Keithley 196, Multimeter, repair

Note: IC Pins are COUNTER Clockwise

2014/05/22 By staze

Counter-Clockwise

Counter-Clockwise

This is mainly just a note to myself, since I can’t seem to get it through my skull, but IC pints are numbered counter clockwise. Not clockwise. I just wired up an IC backward, which I had previously done before when trying to repair a multimeter. This time, it was on an op-amp I’m using in a frequency standard (which I’ll post on later.

So, see the picture? Got it? I’m such a dumbass sometimes.

Image Courtesy of Wikipedia article on DIP. Bonus to anyone that can tell me who thought of, and why, the pins are counter-clockwise vs clockwise.

Filed Under: Electronics Tagged With: Counter-Clockwise, DIP, Dumbass

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