Pioneer CDJ-100S Repair

cdj-100s_angleFor almost a year, I’ve had a CDJ-100s that my brother inlaw gave me to repair. He picked it up second hand from his employer as broken, and was hoping I could fix it. Basic troubleshooting showed it wouldn’t read disks. You’d put a disk in, it would spin up, but then never show track info, or start playing. I did find the Service Manual online several places (linked here), but beyond basic troubleshooting, it required the “YEDS-7″ disk, which is also called the Sony Test Disk 3. Which costs, from everything I can find, at least $150 (and has also been discontinued). So, it sat in my repair pile.

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tektronix_logo_designsparkA year or so ago, when the Tektronix MDO3000 series scope was released, I signed up to win one from Tektronix. At the time, I used my personal email and home phone number since it was a competition (why would I used my office phone)? Shortly after, the calls from Tektronix started asking me if I wanted to buy anything, was looking to buy anything, etc (sales/marketing calls). Most of the time, they’d just call early in the morning (8-9am), or somehow, right when my one year old was taking a nap. =/

They would also send an email follow up, though they wouldn’t leave a voicemail. After the second time it happened, I emailed them back and said “please don’t call my home phone, call my work phone xxx-xxx-xxxx”. No response. Then a mouth or so later, another call and email. Respond to email, no response. The third time, I finally got a response to the email saying they would have to talk to their supervisor about removing me from the list. A follow up resulted in nothing, but also no calls for at least a month. Then another call at 8am one day, and I lost my patience. I emailed their main PR/Marketing email address on the Tektronix website with something rather stern, and commenting that I grew up across the street from Tektronix, and many of my family members, as well as my wife’s father, worked there for years. For a couple weeks, I heard nothing, but then I heard from a Senior Communications Manager apologizing, and saying she would look into where the process failed, and had me removed from their lists. Also, she said she was going to mail me a gift as an apology. I provided my mailing address, and a couple weeks later, got an overnight notice from UPS that something was due for delivery. What did it have?

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Fluke 12 repair

Fluke 12Another meter repair everyone! Anyway, as usual, I purchased a Fluke 12 off eBay listed as the buttons not working, but the meter itself worked as long as you were measuring diodes, or VDC. After a quick search online, this appeared to be due to the elastomeric strip between the buttons PCB and the main PCB being dirty, or failing. I contacted the seller to make sure the case wasn’t broken (as this meter seems to be on Fluke’s “Repair by Replace” list, I didn’t want to fall into that trap again), and after he said it was all intact, I ordered the unit for $30 + $6 shipping.

The meter arrived, and indeed, the buttons didn’t work. Nice “click” when pushing, but no registration. I pulled the screews from the back of the unit, and the main PCB clips into the case in a rather awkward way (really Fluke?). After getting that out, there’s a plastic/metal shield that holds the LCD and button board in place, and a cutout for the two elastomer strips to pass through. I cleaned the main PCB real well hoping that would help, but sadly, it still doesn’t work. I grabbed my meter, and checked the strip it came with, and it registered in 5 mega-ohms. Well, that’s not right. Online I found some references to stealing the elastomer strips out of a Harbor Freight cheapo multimeter. As luck would have it, I had one of those I got for free a while back. Indeed, it has two strips between the board and the screen, and while the height of them is right, the thickness is off (they’re just over 1/2 as thick is the stock strip). So, I cut two to the right length, and measured their resistance: about 5-10 kilo-ohms. Much better. I doubled them up and managed to shove them into the space where the old strip was, and closed the unit up. Once the screws were in (and therefore pressure applied to the strips), it worked! Total repair time, less than 10 minutes. Cost, free!

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