Re:load Pro Monitor on Raspberry Pi

RLP Monitor Raspberry PiNow that I have the Raspberry Pi, and the Re:load Pro, I wanted some way to monitor things. Luckily, someone else did the work! While I have no problem running it on the Mac, that defeats my purpose of the Raspberry Pi. So, I grabbed the source, and worked on installing it on there.

Here’s the long and short of it.

You need to download and compile node.js from source. This will take a LONG friggin’ time, so go have dinner. Watch a movie. Something. For me, it took about 2 hours to compile. After that, you need to install optipng, and libjpeg-progs (sudo apt-get install optipng libjpeg-progs). Finally, you have to install node-serialport (sudo npm install serialport). After that, you can install rlpmon by cd’ing into the directory, and running “npm install” (basically, follow the directions on Dean’s github page for the software.

After that, you’re good to go. Enjoy!

Repair of Asus RT-N16

RT-N16 Rear (No Antennas)Late last night, my router went down. Checking it, I saw that the lights were all off. Huh. So, I unplugged and replugged it, and it came back up. Figuring it was a glitch, I went back to bed, and thought nothing of it. This morning, I found it was off again, and re-plugging it would do nothing. Crap.

So, I pulled it off the wall, and opened it up. Hey look, a bad capacitor. It’s labeled as a 680uF 16V cap, with a nice bulged top. After finding a replacement in my capacitor stash, I went about removing the old one… which was, a pain. Mainly because it’s on a huge ground plane, so heating the leads enough to get it removed was a challenge. Even my FR-300 desoldering gun took a bit of work to get things hot enough to melt. But, after about 5 minutes of working on it, I got the old one out, and the new one in. The new one is a bit taller, but it does fit12.

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  1. And yes, I’m okay with a 16V capacitor in this case since the power supply is 12V (meaning a 75% derating) and the whole thing lives in my garage which is never above 20C. Yes, I know it’s above the minimum 70% derating, but not by much, and I didn’t have a 25V that would fit. []
  2. Also note: Asus, at least on this board, paints their capacitor markings backward. Where normally the negative capacitor lead would go in the solid white marked hole, it is actually the positive as can be seen for all the other caps on the board. Why Asus does this, I have NO idea. []

Roomba CHM (Brush Deck) Motor “Repair”

2013-10-11_124832_brush_cageJust a quick post, but the other day, my Roomba proceeded to suck up a baby wipe (that my son had apparently left somewhere randomly and I didn’t see while picking up the main floor before bed), and the brushes jammed up enough that it didn’t trigger the “clean brush” warning, but probably overheated the Cleaning Head Module (CHM) motor (see picture). After removal, the brushes refused to run. Spinning the brushes manually was easy, so it wasn’t physically seized. Unfortunately, replacing the motor (eBay) is basically the same price as buying a whole new CHM. Checking the electrical resistance on the motor was about 8ohms. Not too bad, but, I’ve never cleaned the motor, so I gave it a few good squirts of DeoxIT, and spun it a while. Checked the resistance again, and it was 22k ohms. Huh. Hooked it up to my bench PSU at 9V, and powered it up. Nothing. Crap.

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